I do occasionally have puppies for sale.  I only breed when I want a puppy myself.  All my dogs and bitches are DNA tested for CEA, TNS and CL, they are also hip scored and tested for glaucoma.  I will only health test dogs when I am 100% sure of their temperaments, this is the most important criteria for me, and then I want to make sure I breed the healthiest puppies I can.  Having gone to great lengths to breed a happy healthy puppy I am very very particular as to where these puppies spend the rest of their lives.  I want the 'forever' great home for all my puppies, so I will want to know all about any prospective owner.  

If you are interested in a puppy you can email me and tell me about yourself, your home and your life style.  I want to know what kind of life you will offer to one of my very special 'babies'.  One line emails will not be answered.  Border collies are a very active breed that need a lot of physical exercise and mental stimulation, so if you are out at work all day or are not prepared to spend plenty of outdoor time with a dog, who will demand much from you, please do not bother to contact me. I do not export any of my puppies except in very exceptional circumstances. You will find a questionnaire on the website that I ask all prospective buyers to fill in before we continue further discussions.

Please remember whether you have a puppy from me or not, DO NOT buy from a puppy farm.  A good reputable breeder will have the puppies with their mother, and will be happy for you to see them together.  If the mother is not present, please, no matter how heart breaking, or how cute, walk away.  The only way to put a stop to puppy farming is for there to be no market for their puppies. 

'Maddie and Cymro are pleased to announce the arrival of their puppies' 

'Maddie had her puppies on 5th May 2010.  2 blue tri bitches, 1 red tri bitch, 1 lilac and white bitch and 1 black and white dog.  Both pups and Mum are doing well.'

One day old
One week old
Two weeks old
3 Weeks
4 Weeks
5 Weeks
6 Weeks
7 Weeks
So here is the end of the story!   8 weeks old and leaving home - pups with their new owners
' Me,? I'm staying here'

Puppies will be home reared and well socialised They will have homeopathic vaccines from 4 week; this will not affect any puppy to be given normal puppy vaccinations. They will be micro chipped and come with a comprehensive puppy pack as well as all KC paper work and health certificates. Pedigrees will be endorsed until relevant health tests have been carried out.  I also require new owners to undertake to return the pup (at whatever age) to me if they can no longer take proper care of the dog.

Growing up
'Puppy Reunion'
All of the pups came back on 20/2/11 for an afternoon of playing it was wonderful to see them all together again.
PUPPIES FIRST BIRTHDAY' All the pups came over on 7th May for their first birthday party.  We  had a great afternoon, pups all played together and showed off  all their training.

COCOBOLA SINGIN' THE BLUES for SHAMOREL                                                                                                   Threjays Cymro

BEFORE YOUR PUP ARRIVES AND EARLY TRAINING

 So you have decided to get a new puppy.  You have chosen the breed you want, found a breeder and chosen your puppy, and are now waiting for the great day when your new puppy comes home.

 There are many things you need to think about even before the puppy arrives.  Where is the puppy going to sleep, spend safe time when you are not with him/her? Where about in the garden do you want the pup to pee and poo?  How is the puppy going to travel in the car?  Work out a feeding regime so you can fit 4 meals into the day.  Many breeders will supply the puppy food that they are using, you need to check with them and if they do not supply food, find out what the pup is being feed on, so that you can get a supply in.  It’s not advisable to change the puppy's food.  Leaving home and Mum is stressful enough, without a change of diet too, you could end up with a pup with a very 'upset stomach'.  Ask the breeder if you can leave a little blanket with Mum and the rest of the litter so that when you pick up your puppy you have a blanket to take with you that has the 'right' smell on it. Also ask for a bottle of water so the puppy has water he/she is used to drinking. You can start to mix your water with the breeder’s water; this prevents the change of water upsetting the pup's stomach.

Think about the puppy's sleeping area.  It needs to be somewhere warm and quiet so that the puppy will feel safe and secure.  A good item to purchase may be an indoor kennel.  This can be moved around and will provide your puppy with some where secure and quiet when he/she needs to sleep and relax.  It is also a secure place for you to leave the puppy when you have to go out and at night.  It will also help with toilet training.  Pads or paper can be placed at one end of the kennel, so that the puppy does not run all around the house piddling and poo’ing where ever he/she fees like.  As toilet training progresses some of the wet paper can be taken outside to encourage the puppy to use outside areas.  If you want to teach the pup to use a particular place in the garden, take him/her to that place, and reward for any piddles or poo’s in that area and take the wet paper to that area to help the pup understand this is the 'right' place.  Never, under any circumstances, tell the puppy off for little accidents.  This approach will only serve to teach the pup not to 'perform' when you are present.

Car travel should be a pleasant experience from day 1.  Think about a cage in the back of the car.  This will create a safe, secure place for your puppy and stop him/her being jostled about with the movement of the car or any sudden braking.  It is also advisable  to take the puppy on some pleasant journeys to start with rather than just the trip to the vet for vaccinations.  Put tit bits into the cage so each time the puppy is placed into the cage there will be 'goodies' to find.  All these positive associations will help the puppy to see the car as a great place to be.

 When you get puppy home, decide on rules and boundaries and stick to them from Day 1.  If you don't want the puppy on the furniture when it’s grown up don't allow it from the start.  How confusing for a dog to be allowed to do something one minute and then to be told off for doing the same thing 6 months later. Of course you want to cuddle a new puppy, so call the puppy to you, and then you invite him/her to join you on the sofa, but its your decision not the puppy's.  Don't allow the puppy to follow you all around the house all the time. By allowing this at the start you run the risk of your puppy growing into an adult that will find it very difficult to be left on its own. 

The first couple of nights may well be disturbed by the puppy crying.  Don't be tempted to run back all the time and cuddle the puppy.  They very soon learn this is a great way of getting you to come running.  Maybe leave a dim light on and the radio on low.  Give the puppy that blanket you left with the breeder to get the 'right' smell on it.  Crying and whining should be discouraged by ignoring the puppy (not always easy I know, particularly if you have neighbours) Tell you neighbours you have a new puppy and take him/her to meet them.  Most people are willing to be a little tolerant if they are put in the picture and are often delighted to have a new 'little neighbour'.  On the whole after a while the puppy will be tired and fall asleep.  Its one of those times when we say 'have to be cruel to be kind' the quicker the puppy learns the night time routine the better, not only for you but for the puppy too.

Make sure before your puppy comes home that you have registered with your local vet.  Better safe than sorry, puppies are like small children, you never know when they may have an accident, so you want someone on hand quickly rather than having to ring round in an emergency.

 It is always a good idea, what ever breed of dog you have chosen, to enrol in a training/socialisation class, so check out your local dog training classes before you get your puppy.  Most vets will have a list of local classes.  Ask the trainer if you can bring the puppy down for 10-15 minutes just to have a look before the vaccination course is complete.  You can carry the puppy and he/she will be able to take in the surroundings, and get used to the new smells and noises, before they start training 'proper'.  To find out the importance of good socialisation please refer to the Socialisation article on the Behaviour page of this website.

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SHAMOREL QUESTIONNAIRE